Wedding madness in Rabat

I am in Rabat now, staying with Faisal's family who is very sweet. Things are more cosmopolitan here than in Fes, and the weather is a lot cooler since we're on the ocean. Fes is HOT. But this is what I expected, and it's not too bad, yet. On Wednesday we went to Casablanca and saw Masjeed Hassan Ithani, the second largest mosque in the world. The night before Faisal's mom had given me a gorgeous handmade, orange silk jalaba (long tunic style dress for women) that she had made herself. I was so touched, which brings me to my biggest frustration here: I can't EXPRESS myself, especially my gratitude, which leaves me feeling helpless and ungrateful. Saying "shukran" just doesn't cut it with everything. Anyway, I wore the jelaba to the mosque and Jessie and Faisal's mom and I went up into the women's section to pray the afternoon prayer. It was a really intense spiritually...being inside this majestic mosque surrounded by intricatly carved pillars and ceilings and Qur'an scripture written in beautiful caligraphy all over the place in gold and black. Just hearing the call to prayer from inside the mosque, hearing the words echoing through the mosque and off the walls was awesome in the true sense of the word.

The food here is delicious. I have been eating meat, which has taken some getting used to, but I am learning. Breakfast is usually cafe au lait with bread and cream cheese and jam or honey. Then, the ladies cook until lunch time, which is the main meal of the day, usually a huge dish placed in the center of the table where we all eat with our hands (usually assisted by bread). Couscous with steamed carrots and beef, chicken with almonds and figs ontop of rice...amazing feasts everyday! Then dinner is around 10 pm or so, and is small like breakfast. Maybe some soup and dates or "bagheer" which are like crepes and the most delicious of all. You soak them in butter and honey and fold them up. Mmmm. Sometimes we eat only yogurt and dates and that is plenty. I like eating this way, I think it is healthier. Oh, and all the juices here are homemade and taste like no juice in the US. I know I am talking about the food too much, but it is such a big part of life here. I am learning how to cook all the dishes too, and hope to share when I get back home.
Rabat is full of wedding madness. We are tediously hand-making cookies everyday in preperation for the event. We went to the Moroccan equivalent of a wedding planner with Jessie to get her dresses. She looked so stunning trying them all on. You rent dresses here, rather than buy them, because the bride usually wears 3-9 dresses throughout the night. Jessie has a flowy white dress with silver beads, a traditional Berber dress, and Faisal's aunt is hand making the 3rd, which is a sort of brownish-red and should be the most beautiful of all. Everyone here is very kind to us, and very enchanted by Jessie's fairness. Little girls love playing with her hair, it's so cute.
Today Faisal's friend Labib arrived from Saudi, so more sight seeing is bound to begin. He came laden with gifts, like an Arabian santa. It is nice having a 4th person in the group, since sometimes I have felt like a third wheel with Jessie and Faisal. They are lovebirds you know.

The language barrier has been so frusterating. Moroccan arabic is so different than classical arabic! So I get by with saying words like "water?" "come" "I go" etc. I am determined though, and know I will improve. I've learned a lot just in a week and a half! And school will help of course. I really made a good foundation in Fes, and feel like it is my home. I love Hanane's family and their friends. I feel very welcomed, yet lonely at the same time since I cannot communicate as I want to.

I miss everyone, and thank you to those who have written me! It is nice to hear from the other side of the world. :)

Asalaamu alaikum