The Ecstasy of a Mosseum

On the 29th of September I headed down to Dar Batha in the medina along with thousands of other Fassis to the annual Mosseum of Moulay Idriss II (the founder of Fes). A Mosseum, is basically a pilgrimage to the tomb of a respected Muslim man. All different Sufi orders from around the area were there in their respective garments, many of them toting instruments as well. There were many children in the streets, some of the assigned to holding richly colored velvet flags. All the brotherhoods (and a camel) assembled themselves on the narrow street outside Dar Batha, some of them breaking out into song and dance...swaying back and forth in their trance-like rhythm. One of the brotherhoods carried rifles; another carried large wooden sticks. Another group carried large cylindrical silver platters on their heads. There was the gnawa group in their blue satin tunics adorned with shells and complete with Rasta-esque dreadlocks hanging down from their ghza (small hats). I stood by them for a long while, watching them play their music and take turns dancing inside the circle they had formed in intricate, almost break-dance like movements. Everyone began to proceed together down the street and all the groups began playing at once; one group's beat overlapping into the next. A small, elfish-man with bright pink lips balanced a large silver contraption on his head. A group of men played small flutes...feeding off of eachothers tones and melodies while dancing in circles...smiling and elated. Suddenly a women from the crowd, jelaba and hijab and all, joined them in their dance, shaking it like nobody's business. The men behind them were dancing with drums, spinning them in the air and twirling them on their arms and legs.
It was complete madness in the street...Sufis and Fassis everywhere...dancing, singing, watching, reporting...The energy was amazing...like the intense energy I felt at the Sacred Music Festival my first week in Fes. Crowds of people swaying back and forth, back and forth, chanting praises to Allah, sweating and drunk off the moment.
We too started to dance...and sway...and smile...sometimes you just have to let go.